By Sylvester “Nunnie” Robinson
The recent announcement that Tom Jenkins’ Barbecue will permanently close its doors in December sent waves of emotion through members of the Eta Nu Chapter of Omega Psi Phi Fraternity, Inc. Reactions ranged from shock and disbelief to deep remorse and reflection. I, too, found myself needing a moment to reconcile the news, fully appreciating that 39 years of sustained excellence—especially in an industry where nearly 90 percent of startups fail—is nothing short of remarkable. Lending institutions are often hesitant, even fearful, at the prospect of financing small, independent food ventures.
I was privileged to sit down with co-owner Harry Harrell, who graciously walked me through the restaurant’s journey—from its humble beginnings to its status as a Broward County icon.
Since the restaurant isn’t named after either of you, how did you come up with the name ‘Tom Jenkins ?
“In our research, we discovered that Hagen Daz was named after a family member. Inspired by that, and reflecting our Southern roots in Georgia, Alabama, and South Carolina, we decided to do something similar. ‘Tom Jenkins was actually the name of Gary’s uncle—he had no connection to the business—but the name just had the right ring to it.”
Contrary to my initial belief, the decision to close was not sudden. Harry explained that the process had been thoughtfully planned for more than two years. He and co-owner Gary Torrence, former roommates at Florida A&M University in Tallahassee, are both turning 65 and have been blessed to become grandparents. What we are witnessing, Harry said, is simply the fulfillment of long-prepared retirement plans.
Before Tom Jenkins ever had a physical location, both men were established professionals at IBM—Gary as an electrical engineer and Harry as a computer programmer. Having already experienced corporate life, they were entrepreneurs at heart. During their college years, they honed their culinary skills, perfecting sauces and barbecue recipes that became popular staples at parties and events. Over time, these opportunities organically laid the foundation for what would become Tom Jenkins’ Barbecue.
The concept was rooted in a simple philosophy: If you do what you love, you’ll never work a day in your life. That belief fueled their motivation. Working 80-hour weeks for someone else, they reasoned, they might as well work that hard for themselves. It was never about getting rich, but about doing what they truly loved. At the time, banks were reluctant to finance “mom-and-pop” food businesses unless they were large corporate franchises, which further underscored the uphill battle they faced.
Harry and Gary began with a weekend trailer business they called “Roadside Vending,” focusing on building a loyal customer base. They sold barbecue from that trailer for seven years—while still working full-time at IBM. The perseverance required was immense, and Harry credits their success and endurance to God.
Their long-term plan included identifying a permanent location on Fort Lauderdale’s east side. After vetting 15 potential sites and facing repeated rejection, the final opportunity came from an In & Out Oil franchise across Federal Highway from their current location—another blessing, in Harry’s words. They remained there for seven years, a period Harry noted as the biblical number of completion. During this time, they reinvested every dollar back into the business, never paying themselves, saving instead for land purchases. Mutual trust and their contrasting personalities—truly an “odd couple”—proved to be key ingredients in their success.
Securing their current building was one of the most challenging chapters. A frequent customer named Kevin persistently approached them with business ideas. Initially assumed to be related to Amway, Harry eventually agreed to meet—on the condition that the proposal involve barbecue. Kevin revealed he was also a real estate agent and offered to help them find a permanent home. After numerous rejections, some of which felt discriminatory, the search circled back to their current location—the former Straw Hat, a country-and-western establishment. The owner, based in Jacksonville, wanted to liquidate his Broward assets. With no financial institution involved, the deal was completed via fax, wire, and mail. Every available financial resource was utilized.
That purchase marked a turning point. Tom Jenkins’ Barbecue became the only minority-owned business east of Federal Highway and expanded beyond the restaurant to include apartments, office space, housing, and other real estate holdings.
Renovations took another year, and the transformation was remarkable. Harry shared that real peace of mind came around year three, and certainly by years four and five. A strict standard guided operations: quality, freshness, and taste. Any remaining food was discarded—only fresh food was served daily.
What began with just Harry, Gary, and their wives eventually grew into a payroll of 25 employees. Many were individuals others might have overlooked due to past mistakes, but Tom Jenkins gave them opportunity, dignity, and a chance to rebuild.
When asked about legacy and whether the business would be passed down to family, Harry answered candidly: our (Gary’s and mine) dreams cannot be forced upon others—even family members. Their children, he noted, are thriving in their own chosen professions.
The business acumen of Gary Torrence and Harry Harrell is perhaps best reflected in their understanding of land value and brand ownership. While the restaurant will close, they will retain all rights to the Tom Jenkins name, recipes, and sauces, regardless of future locations or land sales.
Their success even surprised local officials. A former Lauderdale-by-the-Sea commissioner, who owned the adjacent apartment building, expressed disbelief that they owned the property and even offered to buy and lease it back to them. That offer was declined. Ironically, a shell company had been necessary to complete certain property purchases—an acknowledgment of barriers that still existed, even in so-called liberal Broward County.
Harry Harrell and Gary Torrence, through Tom Jenkins’ Barbecue, have set a sterling example of perseverance, faith, integrity, and excellence. On behalf of publisher Bobby R. Henry and the Westside Gazette staff, we thank and salute you for your immeasurable contributions to the residents and business community of Broward County, and for inspiring generations of aspiring entrepreneurs.
Of Note: The last official business day of Tom Jenkins’ Barbecue will be Saturday, December 20, 2025.
